GE Profile Refrigerator Not Cooling But Freezer Is Fine? (Solved!)

Nothing is as odd as a GE Profile unit whose refrigerator feels warm when the freezer is predictably cold. Logic will tell you that something is wrong. So, is your GE profile refrigerator not cooling but freezer is fine?

Your GE Profile refrigerator is not cooling because of overstocking or understocking, dirt-clogged condenser coils, frozen evaporator coils, loose door gasket, broken Start Relay, or a faulty thermistor, evaporator fan motor, damper defrost, or control board.

So, ideally, there are at least a dozen possibilities which I’ll explain in this post. I’ll take you through not just the probable causes but also their recommendable fixes.

With such basics, you’ll be able to fix your GE Profile unit without paying an expert to do the job for you. More importantly, you learn to prevent most of these issues, boosting your refrigerator’s general performance and lifecycle. 

Here we go! 

In a hurry? See suggested fixes for the probable reasons behind the failing non-cooling refrigerator on the table below:

12 Reasons Your GE Profile Refrigerator Not Cooling But Freezer Is Fine

Troubleshooting A GE Profile Refrigerator Not Cooling But Freezer Is Fine

Here’s how to troubleshoot the 12 probable reasons for a warm GE Profile refrigerator whose freezer is typical cold.

1. Refrigerator Overstocking or Understocking

Putting too much food or not putting enough into the fridge is why it stays warm. For example, overstocking blocks the fridge’s air vents, leading to heat buildup. So, instead of the refrigerator cooling the food, it warms them, causing a majority to go bad quickly. 

On the other hand, understocking results in little food absorbing and retaining cold temperature. Once that happens, the refrigerator is likely to warm up faster.

Fix 

Don’t put too much or too little food in the fridge.  You may need to rearrange them, dispose of expired options, and add more if you’ve understocked.

2. Dirt-Clogged Condenser Coils

The condenser coils’ job is to cool the fridge’s refrigerant and provide cool air around it. Sadly, they become dirt-clogged over time, making them unable to perform their job.

Fix 

Learn to clean your condenser coils at least once a year. You can use a commercial condenser cleaner like the Brushtech Refrigerant Coil Cleaning Brush to expertly clean off dust and dirt.

3. Frozen Evaporator Coils 

While the biggest source of condenser coil failure is dirt, that of the evaporator coils is frosting. Once frost covers the evaporator coils, it blocks airflow, making it hard for the refrigerant to cool the fridge.

Fix 

If your evaporator coils are frozen, inspect your unit’s defrost system as it could be faulty. Overall, this is often a technical undertaking that needs a professional. 

If it’s the defrost system, the professional will recommend you change something (defrost timer, thermostat, or defrost control board).

4. Loose or Worn Door Gasket 

The door gasket is very critical in maintaining the refrigerator’s cooling temperature. This door feature creates a seal around the door that prevents air leakage when the fridge door is shut. 

So, if it’s loose or worn out, cold air will escape, and warm air will find its way in, warming up the fridge.

Fix 

Inspect the door gasket and fit it in place if it’s loose. Replace it, however, if it’s worn out.

5. Broken ‘Start Relay’

The start relay is another essential temperature regulation component adjacent to the compressor. It not only supplies power to your GE refrigerant but also maintains an ideal internal temperature. 

If it’s faulty, the fridge is likely to get warm.

Fix 

Test the ‘Start Relay’ terminals with a multimeter for continuity. If they lack continuity, replace the Start Relay.

6. Faulty Thermistor

A thermistor’s role is to monitor the fridge’s internal temperature. It relays information to the control board when there is a temperature anomaly so that it can direct the evaporator assembly and compressor to cool the unit.

Subsequently, if the thermistor becomes faulty, it won’t relay the correct signal to the control board, resulting in the refrigerator warming up.

Fix 

Use a multimeter to test the GE thermistor for continuity. If there’s a lack of continuity from the thermistor, replace it.

7. Faulty Evaporator Fan Motor 

The evaporator fan’s job is to recirculate cool air around the evaporator coils and cool the refrigerant.

The fan is, however, dependent on a fully functioning motor. If the motor fails, the fan won’t recirculate cool air or cool the refrigerant, which means the refrigerant will become warm.

Fix 

Try turning the evaporator fan motor with your hand while the refrigerant is off. The fan motor is likely to be faulty if you encounter some resistance.

You can, however, confirm with a multimeter. If the fan motor doesn’t show continuity, get a new one as that is faulty.

8. Defective Damper Control

The damper control manually or electrically regulates airflow in and out of the refrigerator. This particular door, sadly, fails to allow enough cold air in when it gets stuck or breaks.

Fix 

Check your GE fridge manual to locate the damper control. You’ll then need to unplug the unit and unscrew the damper housing.

If debris or anything else is obstructing the damper control, remove it. Consider replacing it, however, if it shows signs of breakage.

More Reasons Why GE Profile Refrigerator Isn’t Cooling while the Freezer is Fine

9. Malfunctioning Temperature Control Board

The temperature control board relays voltage signals to the compressor and fan motor. If it’s faulty, it’ll send a misdiagnosis, making it hard for the compressor and fan motor to run and cool the refrigerator.

Fix 

If the temperature control board is faulty, you need to change it. But before you do so, try testing it for continuity using a multimeter. If it lacks continuity, change it.

Remember, you’ll need to unplug your fridge and remove its back cover to access the temperature control board.

10. Malfunctioning Defrost Thermostat

The defrost heater’s job is to melt the accumulated ice, which depends on the defrost thermostat for signal. If the defrost thermostat is broken-down, it won’t relay the right signal to the heater; consequently, the heater may not turn.

If it doesn’t, frost will build over the coils, preventing cold air circulation and resulting in a warmer fridge.

Fix 

Use a multimeter to test the defrost timer for continuity. If this part lacks continuity, replace it.

11. Defective Defrost Timer

The defrost timer generally signals the defrost heater when it’s time to defrost. If the timer is faulty, the defrost heater won’t melt the accumulated frost, and the more the ice accumulates, the more clogged the evaporator coils become.

And if the evaporator coils are clogged, they fail to recirculate cool air, resulting in a warmer fridge.

Fix 

Try moving the defrost dial (timer) into the unit’s defrost cycle. If the heater powers on, the defrost timer is OK. But if it doesn’t, it’s defective, meaning you should replace it.

12. Failing Control Board

Lastly, if none of the other components are faulty and your refrigerator still won’t cool, the problem is likely to be the main control board failing.

Fix 

Consider testing the main control board for continuity using a multimeter. If the board lacks continuity, replace it as that proves it’s defective.

People Also Ask

1. But Why The Fridge Is Not Cold But The Freezer Is?

Only your freezer is cold but not the fridge because one important temperature regulation component is faulty. It could be the defrost timer or thermostat, damper control, temperature control board, thermistor, door gasket, condenser or evaporator coils, or evaporator fan motor.

2. Why Is My GE Refrigerator And Freezer Not Cooling?

If your GE refrigerator and freezer are not cooling, the condenser coils are likely dirt-clouded, or the evaporator fan motor is faulty. So, check the two first. If the condenser coils have much dirt, clean them and replace the motor if it’s defective.

3. What Do I Do If My GE Refrigerator Is Not Cooling?

If your GE refrigerator is not cooling, inspect the condenser coils for dirt clogging and clean them if they are clogged. 

If that’s not it, check the fan motors, thermostat, thermistor, and temperature control board for fault and replace whatever is faulty.

4. How Do You Fix a Warm Refrigerator with a Cold Freezer?

If the fridge is warm and the freezer is cold, the only thing to fix is the fridge, not the freezer. Overall, it starts with not overstocking or understocking the refrigerator and cleaning the condenser coils.

If that doesn’t work, test the thermistor defrost timer, thermostat, and other temperature control functions for defectiveness and replace what’s faulty.

5. Why Did My Fridge Stop Getting Cold But Freezer Works?

Your fridge stopped getting cold because something malfunctioned. It could be the defrost timer, thermostat, thermistor, temperature control board, or fan motor. So, check all of them for defectiveness.

Closing Thought On GE Profile Refrigerator Not Cooling But Freezer Is Fine!

Overall, checking the condenser coils for dirt clogging, evaporator coils for frosting, and the fridge for overstocking or understocking is advisable when your fridge is warm while the freezer is cold.

Don’t forget to test the thermistor, damper control, defrost thermostat, defrost timer, temperature control board, main control, start relay, and door gasket for faults and replace what’s faulty.

Also Read:

• Troubleshooting a GE Fridge Not Cooling But Freezing
• How to Fix GE Profile Refrigerator Temperature Control Problems
• How to Fix GE Profile Refrigerator Ice Maker
• Why Your GE Refrigerator Dispenser Isn’t Working While the Ice Maker is
• Troubleshooting GE Profile Refrigerator Not Cooling or Freezing