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Maytag Centennial Washer Troubleshooting Guide (8 Problems!)

No Maytag Centennial washer owner wants to see their washing machine fail before their eyes. We all want to be able to fix it as soon as it fails, and that takes the right Maytag Centennial washer troubleshooting guide.

Generally, it’s a brilliant idea to familiarize yourself with the various Maytag Centennial washer problems to figure out their causes and fixes, and that’s where this troubleshooting DIY guide comes in.

It’s a simplified version of the manual you’ve at home, meant to make the Maytag Centennial troubleshooting less complicated.

We will discuss common Maytag Centennial issues such as a washer that won’t start, sense, lock, spin, agitate or drain and those that leak from the bottom or have a failing transmission.

Hopefully, that’ll cover your current washer problem or equip you with the fix when facing future issues.

Let’s get started!

Maytag Centennial washer troubleshooting

In a rush? Below are the commonest Maytag Centennial washer problems for troubleshooting and possible causes. We will, later on, discuss their respective DIY fixes.

Common Maytag Centennial Washer Problems and Their Causes

 Washer ProblemPossible Cause
1.Washer Won’t StartA stuck power button, locked controls, faulty  timer, door lock or user control, power failure, or faulty power cord
2.Washer Sensing ProblemsWasher Stuck On Sensing
Cause – Stuck keypad, obstructed drains, jammed load, obstructed motor or valve, or a faulty sensor timer, shift actuator, or lid lock Washer Stuck On Wash
Cause – Low water, dirty filter, clogged drain or faulty lid switch, control board or timer
Sensing Light Flashing
Cause – Failing motor, wrong setting, lid not correctly closed, or malfunctioning shift actuator
3.Lid Lock Light FlashingObstructed lid lock or the lid lock out of position
4.Washer Leaking From The BottomMissing or defective tub seal, faulty air gap device, uneven washer, or broken drain pump
5.Spin Cycle ProblemsWasher Wont Spin
Cause – Open lid, unbalanced load, or wrong setting
Slow Spin
Cause – Washer or load imbalance
Violent Spin
Cause – Damaged shock absorbers/suspension rods
Noisy Spin
Cause – Bad bearing
6.Agitator Problem (Washer Won’t Agitate)Faulty agitator, drive belt, wash plate, drive motor, motor coupling, agitator repair kit, or door lock
7.Drainage Problem (Washer Won’t Drain)Clogged drain pump or hose, kinked pipe, or faulty lid switch
8.Transmission ProblemsGrinding noise
Cause – Center seal leakage
No Spin
Cause – Worn out transmission/gears
Smoke While the Washer Runs
Cause – Overheated transmission

Maytag Centennial Washer Troubleshooting Guide – 8 Problems Solved!

Discussed are common Maytag Centennial washer problems, their probable causes, and recommendable solutions:

1. Maytag Centennial Washer Won’t Start

Often, the Maytag Centennial won’t start because of any of these issues:

  • Stuck power button – Check the possibility of your power button being stuck. If it is, then you should try to unstick it.
  • Locked controls – The ‘control lock’ feature locks the control panel, making it hard for your washer to start. So, check it, and if it’s activated, deactivate it.
  • Faulty timer – A faulty timer makes it hard for the washer’s sensor to detect any commands. Thus, it’s harder for the washer to turn on. So, you’ll need to look at the timer to see if it’s broken, then replace it.
  • Faulty door lock – If the door lock is defective, the lid won’t close, and you need it to shut before running the washer. So, you’ll need to replace the lid lock if it’s defective.
  • Failed user control – If the control board fails, the user control (control panel) becomes unresponsive, making it hard for your washer to turn on. You’ll need to replace the main control board to fix the issue.
  • Power failure – Consider the possibility of a power failure. Check the power cord to ensure it’s plugged in and that there is power and nothing is wrong with it.
  • Faulty power cord – There might be power, and the power switch might be okay, but your washer won’t power on if the power cord is defective. Thus, inspect the power cord for damages and test it with a multimeter. If it’s faulty, replace it.
Maytag Centennial Washer Error Codes

2. Maytag Centennial Washer Problems Sensing

Maytag Centennial washer sensor problems come in different forms, and here are the commonest:

a) Maytag Centennial Washer Stuck On Sensing

Your Maytag Centennial washer is stuck on sensing because of any of these reasons:

  • Stuck keypads – A stuck keypad forces the washer to stay in sensing mode. You’ll need to unstick it to get past sensing.
  • Obstructed drain – Clogged drains interrupt water supply, meaning the water-level sensor won’t sense any change. Consequently, the washer will stay on the sensing cycle until you unclog the drains.
  • Jammed load – Too much laundry makes it hard for the washer to spin. Thus, it’s likely to remain on sensing until you reduce the load.
  • Obstructed motor – An obstruction around the motor prevents it from turning, causing the washer to remain on sensing. You’ll need to replace it.
  • Obstructed valve – A dirt obstructed valve needs cleaning as it interferes with water flow, prompting the washer to stay on sensing mode.
  • Faulty sensor – You should replace a faulty water level sensor as it won’t detect any water changes, causing the washer to stay on sensing.
  • Bad shift actuator – A faulty shift actuator interferes with the wash-spin cycle shift causing the washer to stick on sensing mode. You’ll need to replace it if it’s defective.
  • Lid lock failure – If the lid lock is faulty, the lid won’t close, and the washer will stay on sensing mode. So you’ll need to replace the lid lock switch.

b) Water Stuck On Wash

Your Maytag Centennial washer is stuck on wash due to any of these reasons:

  • Low water – If the water level is low, the washer will stay on the wash cycle until the level improves. So, you’ll need to increase the water pressure to raise the level.
  • Dirty filter – A dirty filter prevents water from draining, which means the washer will stay in wash mode. In such a case, replace the filter.
  • Clogged drain – Your washer will remain in wash mode if the pipes are clogged. If that’s the case, unclog your drain and even pump.
  • Faulty lid switch, control board, or timer – if the lid switch, control board, or timer is defective, your washer will stick on the washing cycle. So, test them for continuity with a multimeter. Then replace whatever is faulty.

c) Washer Sensing Light Flashing

Your washer sensing light is flashing because of any of these reasons:

  • Failed motor – Your washer will show you your motor is faulty by flashing the sensor light on the control panel. If so, replace the motor.
  • Wrong setting – If you choose a setting that does not produce adequate water for the load, the washer will flash. Hence, ensure you pick the right setting for the laundry load.
  • Lid not correctly closed – The washer will indicate when the lid is not correctly closed. Therefore, you’ll need to shut it first before starting the washer.
  • Malfunctioning shift actuator – The washer will also flash when the shift actuator is malfunctioning. The fix is to replace the shift actuator.
Maytag Centennial Washer Draining Problems

3. Maytag Centennial Washer Problems Lid Locked Light Flashing

The lid lock light may flash because of any of these reasons:

  • Obstructed lid lock – if there’s an obstruction on the lid, probably debris, the lid lock light will flash. The problem is fixable by removing the hindrance.
  • Lid lock out of position – Check the lid lock to ensure it’s in place. If it’s not, reposition it, lest it will flash.

4. Maytag Centennial Washer Problems Leaking Water from Bottom

Your Maytag Centennial is leaking from the bottom because of any of these reasons:

  • Missing or defective tub seal – If the tub seal is missing or just faulty, the washer will leak from the bottom. Thus, you’ll need to replace the tub seal to fix it.
  • Faulty air gap device – The air gap device’s job is to retain water in the washer. If it’s defective, the washer will leak until you replace it.
  • Uneven washer – If the washer stands on uneven ground, it’ll leak. So, consider stationing it on a more even surface to stop leakage.
  • Broken drain pump – A broken drain pump will leak water. Since it’s irreparable, you should replace it with a matching drain pump.
Maytag Centennial Washer Won't Start

5. Maytag Centennial Washer Spin Cycle Problems

Common Maytag Centennial spin cycle problems include:

a) Washer Won’t Spin

Your Maytag Centennial won’t spin due to any of these reasons:

  • An open lid – you must close the lid before running your washer, lest it won’t turn.
  • Unbalanced load – Try spreading the load evenly in the washer, lest it won’t spin.
  • Wrong setting – Choose the right spin setting to match your laundry, or else the washer won’t spin.

b) Washers Spin Slowly

Sometimes, the Maytag Centennial may spin but at a slow pace. Often that happens because of:

  • Unbalanced load – Ensure your laundry load is even if your washer spins slowly.
  • Unbalanced washing machine – You also need to put the washer on level ground to stabilize it and even the load.

c) Washer Spins Violently

Also, consider the possibility of your washer spinning violently, which can happen if the shock absorbers/dampers or suspension rods are damaged.

You’ll need to replace them to allow them to absorb the energy that the washer releases when running.

d) Noisy Washer

A bad bearing may make your Maytag Centennial noisy during the spin cycle. So, inspect it for rust damage or wear and replace it if you notice any of the signs.

More Issues

6. Maytag Centennial Washer Agitator Problems (Washer Won’t Agitate)

Your Maytag Centennial won’t agitate due to a faulty component. The components include the agitator drive belt, wash plate, drive motor, motor coupling, agitator repair kit, and door lock.

Fix – You’ll need to inspect all these components, test some with the multimeter and replace whatever is defective.

7. Maytag Centennial Washer Draining Problems (Washer Won’t Drain)

Your Maytag Centennial is not draining because of any of these problems:

  • Clogged drain pump or hose – You’ve to unclog the drain hose and clean the pump if any of them is dirt clogged to promote drainage.
  • Kinked pipe – Try to untwist the drain pipe/hose if it has any kinks to unblock it and facilitate drainage.
  • Faulty drain pump – Consider replacing the drain pump if it is defective.
  • Faulty lid switch – Test the lid switch using a multimeter and replace it if it’s defective. That will improve the drainage.
Maytag Centennial Washer Problems

8. Maytag Centennial Washer Transmission Problems

Here are everyday Maytag Centennial transmission problems:

  • Grinding noise – The transmission may produce a grinding noise during the spin cycle due to a center seal leakage. You’ll need to replace the transmission.
  • Washer won’t spin – Worn-out gears/transmission interferes with the spinning. But like the first case, the problem is fixable with a replacement.
  • Smoke while running – If the transmission overheats, it’ll produce smoke while running. If that happens, replace the transmission.

Run Diagnostic to Find Maytag Centennial Washer Codes!

So, you cannot figure out what’s wrong with your Maytag Centennial washer? If yes, you should set the washer on diagnostic mode to view the error codes.

Once you have the Maytag Centennial washer error codes, you can use your manual to interpret them.

Maytag Centennial Ecoconserve Washer Problems

Consider first running diagnostic on your washer. That allows you to see the error code, which often relates to the abovementioned problems. But if you cannot fix the washer, reset it.

What component could be causing the “electrical” smell and the washer to stop at certain points in the cycle?

Based on the symptoms described, namely an “electrical” smell and the washer stopping at certain points in the cycle, it is possible that the drive motor (specifically model number 661600) could be the component responsible for these issues. It is recommended to order a replacement drive motor to address the problem. At RepairClinic.com, you can conveniently order the drive motor with same day shipping, and they also offer a 365 day return policy, ensuring customer satisfaction. By replacing the faulty drive motor, it is likely that these issues will be resolved, allowing the washer to function properly once again.

What could be causing the washer to stop at different parts of the cycle?

There could be a few possible causes for the issue you’re experiencing with your washer stopping at different parts of the cycle. One potential culprit could be a faulty Automatic temperature control and Load Size Sensing Switch. This component is responsible for regulating the temperature and load size during the wash cycle. If this switch is malfunctioning, it could cause the washer to stop unexpectedly. You may consider checking this switch and, if necessary, replacing it. The Temperature Switch W10248240 is recommended for your specific washer model and can be ordered for same-day shipping on RepairClinic.com. Additionally, RepairClinic.com offers a 365-day return policy, providing you with a convenient solution for your repair needs.

How can the lid switch be bypassed?

To bypass the lid switch, you can follow these steps:

1. Firstly, locate the lid switch connector of your washer. This is usually found beneath the top panel or somewhere near the lid hinge area.

2. Once you’ve located the connector, you will notice that it consists of multiple wires. There might be three wires or more, including a green wire.

3. Take a piece of insulated wire, ensuring it is long enough to comfortably reach the connector. This wire will be used to short two specific wires in the connector.

4. Be cautious not to touch or short anything to the green wire, as this wire carries electrical grounding.

5. Identify the two wires within the connector that need to be shorted. These wires are typically different in color or labeled for easier identification.

6. Once you have identified the correct wires, use the insulated wire to create a bridge or connection between these two wires. This essentially bypasses the lid switch.

7. After bypassing the lid switch, run the washer and observe what happens. This will help you determine if the issue lies with the lid switch or if there is another underlying problem.

Please note that bypassing the lid switch should only be done as a troubleshooting step to diagnose potential issues. It is not recommended as a permanent solution. If you suspect a faulty lid switch, it is advisable to consult a professional or refer to the manufacturer’s instructions for proper repair or replacement.

Can the washer be run with the control panel and/or cabinet off?

Yes, it is possible to run the washer with the control panel and/or cabinet off, but there are certain precautions that need to be taken. To begin with, you will need to bypass the lid switch before you can operate the washer without the control panel or cabinet. This can be done by using a piece of insulated wire to short the two wires in the connector. It is crucial to note that under no circumstances should you short anything to the green wire.

Once you have bypassed the lid switch, you can proceed to run the washer and observe its functioning. Running the washer without the control panel and cabinet may allow you to better pinpoint any issues or troubles it may have. However, it is important to exercise caution during this process and to ensure that you undertake any necessary safety measures.

Please keep in mind that removing the control panel and/or cabinet of the washer may expose electrical components and can be potentially hazardous. If you are not familiar with handling electrical appliances or you are unsure about the necessary safety precautions, it is highly recommended to seek professional assistance.

Where is the faint “electric” smell coming from?

Dfrancey reported encountering a faint “electric” smell during the operation of their washing machine. They initially noticed the smell after the agitation cycle, but before the rinse cycle. Upon further inspection, they determined that the smell did not resemble a burning odor, but rather something faintly reminiscent of electricity. In an attempt to identify the source of the smell, Dfrancey carefully examined the control panel and the bottom of the washer, where they found everything to be in good condition, with no apparent issues or malfunctions. However, they decided to remove the control panel and the cabinet to get a better look. Before doing so, they sought advice on the safety of running the washer without these components in place. Jake assured Dfrancey that it would be possible, but first, they would need to bypass the lid switch by using an insulated wire to short the two wires in the connector. Jake advised against shorting anything to the green wire. By running the washer in this manner, Dfrancey hoped to gain further insight into the origin of the faint “electric” smell.

Is there a burning smell?

According to the user’s statement, they have recently experienced an issue with their washing machine. They mention that after putting in a small load, the machine did go through the agitation cycle but ceased before reaching the rinse cycle. However, they note that they did not perceive a burning smell, but rather a faint scent resembling electricity.

What could be causing the humming sound?

The humming sound you are experiencing could be a result of various factors. Firstly, it is important to determine the exact location from where the sound is emanating. Is it coming from the console or the lower part of the washer? Once you have pinpointed the source, it will be easier to identify the potential causes.

One possibility is that there could be faulty components within the control panel. It is recommended to inspect the timer and lid switch, specifically looking for any signs of burned components. If any are found, they may need to be replaced to rectify the issue.

Another consideration is that the humming sound may be linked to the different stages of the washing cycle. For instance, if the machine fills but fails to agitate, or if it stops intermittently during the cycle, this could indicate an underlying problem contributing to the buzzing. In such cases, it is advisable to examine the control panel more closely, as the sound appears to be originating from there. This may indicate a need for further troubleshooting or repair within the control panel area.

In addition to the auditory symptom, the faint electrical smell accompanying the buzzing sound could be indicative of an electrical issue. It is crucial to address this promptly, as electrical problems can pose a safety hazard. If you are uncertain about electrical troubleshooting and repair, it would be wise to consult a professional technician who can thoroughly inspect the control panel and internal components to identify and resolve the root cause of the humming sound and electrical smell.

Keep in mind that these suggestions are preliminary and it is recommended to exercise caution when inspecting or conducting repairs on electrical appliances.

What happens when the washer is filled?

When the washer is filled with water, it immediately stops operating and does not proceed to the agitation cycle. Even if the spin cycle is manually selected, the washer still fails to spin. Instead, a humming sound can be heard for a short period of time before it eventually stops.

What could be the reason for a washer to fill and go through the wash agitation but not refill for the rinse cycle?

Why is it getting expensive with the replacements?
Replacing parts can be costly, especially if multiple components need to be replaced. Unfortunately, it is not always possible to determine the exact cause of the issue without proper troubleshooting. This may result in replacing parts that are not directly related to the problem, adding to the overall expense.

What else could it be?
Aside from the already replaced Temperature Control Switch and timer, other potential causes could include low water levels, a dirty filter preventing water drainage, or clogged drain pipes. Additionally, a faulty lid switch, control board, or timer could also be contributing factors.

Could it be the water inlet valve?
Yes, a faulty or clogged water inlet valve could lead to the washer filling for the wash cycle but not the rinse cycle. It is recommended to check the water inlet valve for any blockages or defects that could hinder proper water flow.

What could be causing the “electrical smell” coming from the control panel or back of the washer?
The “electrical smell” could be an indication of a potential problem. It might be originating from either the control panel or the back of the washer. It is advisable to inspect these areas for any signs of electrical issues or malfunction.

Why would the washer fill for the wash cycle but not the rinse cycle?
The water inlet valve could be the cause of this issue. It is possible that the water inlet valve is faulty or clogged, preventing the washer from refilling during the rinse cycle.

If your Maytag Centennial washer is filling and going through the wash agitation but not refilling for the rinse cycle, there are several possible reasons for this issue.

Firstly, it’s important to check the water level. If the water level is low, the washer will stay on the wash cycle until the level improves. In this case, increasing the water pressure can help raise the level and allow the washer to proceed to the rinse cycle.

Another factor to consider is a dirty filter. A dirty filter can prevent water from draining properly, causing the washer to remain in the wash mode. If you suspect this may be the case, it is recommended to replace the filter to ensure proper water flow.

Clogged drains can also be a culprit for the washer not refilling during the rinse cycle. If the pipes are clogged, the water cannot drain, and the washer will remain stuck in the wash mode. In such a situation, it is necessary to unclog the drain and even pump to restore proper functioning.

Additionally, it is important to inspect the lid switch, control board, and timer for any potential faults. A faulty lid switch, control board, or timer can cause the washer to stick in the wash cycle. To determine if any of these components are defective, it is advisable to test them for continuity using a multimeter. If any of them are found to be faulty, they should be replaced accordingly.

By considering these factors – water level, dirty filter, clogged drains, and faulty components – you can troubleshoot and identify the possible reasons behind your washer’s behavior.

Closing Thought

Now, you have a simple but well-detailed Maytag Centennial washer troubleshooting guide you can use to fix common Maytag Centennial washer problems.

Overall, this troubleshooting guide saves you from having to call a technician and spending money. But, once the problem is out of your scope, don’t hesitate to seek help from a professional.

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